Kotlik Adventures Day 1

I began this morning by boarding a small propeller plane with about 20 other passengers and flying to Anchorage, Alaska. It was quite a trip, this was the kind of plane where you could feel every bump in the tarmac during take off and the turbulence once in the air was also much more noticeable, but still it wasn’t too bad. Arriving in Anchorage the views had changed completely, from Anchorage you can see the mountains, and not just the big hills that were in Fairbanks, but the snow capped peaks of soaring mountains. I spent a long layover in Anchorage, longer still because my flight was delayed, but eventually I got directed out to an even yet smaller propeller plane. The trip was pretty smooth and the views from the plane were astounding. Snow capped peaks fading down into the forested slopes, which gave way to the lush green valleys with little mountain streams. It was beautiful, and one day I would love to visit anchorage and go hiking in those mountains. As my flight continued onwards though, the mountains slowly gave way to small, brown rolling hills laced with small brooks, large rivers, little ponds, and large lakes. And as the mountains faded so did the vast amounts of the greenery. The landscape became an uneven spectrum of yellows and browns, and around the bodies of water grew small green shrubs and bushes. Kind of like small green oasis’ forming along and even across the bodies of water scattered throughout the tundra. Streams would suddenly begin (or perhaps end) randomly throughout the terrain and twine their way towards the next biggest body of water and so on. While vastly different from the boreal forests of Fairbanks, the peaks of anchorage, the plains or mountains of Colorado, the tundra truly is remarkable in its own right, and quite a sight to see. After landing at the small airport in St. Marys I had another lay over which lasted about an hour. St. Marys, is a small town, and though I didn’t get to see much, it seemed interesting. For those of you who went to Missinipe with me, it was a lot like that but in the tundra. Eventually the pilot called eight of us over (he was flying to three villages) and led us out to the yet smaller propeller plane. The kind where you can see the pilot sitting in front of you, and though there are two pilot seats there’s only one pilot. The kind that you have to duck in just to get to your single seat, as you pass your luggage, and then strap on a full seat belt. Truly the kind of propeller plane I was first expecting. After the pilot jumped in he turned around and told us again where he was headed and without further adieu he took off. Much bumpier but nevertheless awesome! The trip to Kotlik only took about 30 minutes, and the views from the much bigger windows were spectacular! Really it was just more of the tundra, but more rivers and bigger rivers, like 6 times the size of the Chena River in Fairbanks. Don’t worry I took pictures.

Eventually, I saw Kotlik in front of me and shortly after we landed on the gravel runway. Four of us got out and after unloading our luggage the pilot took off again. We were met by an ATV pulling a trailer and the four of us jumped on and the driver took us to where we needed to go, though my trip was much less direct and I ended up having to walk a bit after being dropped off. I eventually found my way to the tribal Office and met several people and talked to them for a bit. Very nice and friendly people! In fact the entire town is very friendly, everybody says hi or waves as they pass you on the board walk, whether they’re walking, biking, or riding an ATV. The surrounding land is swampy, it’s wet, water up to your ankles, with tall grasses growing out of it. If there’s not water there’s mud, or if you’re next to the river… well there’s a river. So (most of) the roadways are all made of wood planking and raised up off the ground, these are no bigger than a large sidewalk and the ATVs have to pull into small “passing spaces” to let others pass, though some sections are just wide enough for two ATVs to pass each other without stopping.

All the buildings are raised up off the ground, and in front of most are the cutest dogs you’ll ever see, many are leashed to stakes outside but some of them run free too. They’re all soo cute! I feel a little bad some of them don’t have more freedom but that’s life and they’d probably get lost in the tundra or weak havoc along the boardwalk. I did see one puppy outside the store, who was adorable, but when I tried to get close or take his picture he’d move further away until he finally just ran off, maybe I can make friends with him before I leave. Then later while walking around the village seeing what there was to see, greeting people, and talking to some of them, I saw these two super cute husky puppies rough housing together. One of them ran off when I called to them but the other timidly approached me (very timidly) then after letting me pet him for a bit he became more comfortable and gave me a few kisses, then he went frolicking off to play in the tundra. I want him now, he was supper cute and I could play with him all day long. These dogs really are all adorable, and many are even stoic sitting on top of crates like they’re kings of all that’s around.

There are two stores in town, I have been to one, it’s a supermarket with four aisles and basically has what Safeway has, just less of it and more expensive. I mean they even had Monterey Jack Chicken Taquitos…for double the price, but still. So the town basically lies between the river and the open expanse of the tundra (the views from both sides are fantastic and in a very real way they’re serene and awe-inspiring). The town is then crisscrossed with the wooden boardwalks some in much better condition than others, and the main mode of transport is the ATV’s though many people walk and you just have to watch for traffic. Along the river everybody has a boat tied up, as they live a subsistence lifestyle and it is fishing season, and about 20 minutes away by boat I’m told is the open ocean. It’s completely different from what I’m used to but it is beautiful, peaceful, serene, friendly, and ultimately I think it will all be a grand time…though probably difficult.

Anyways I made it to the tribal office after arriving and most of them had only found out I was coming in today, so some miscommunication happened between me and them but it’ll work out. Currently they have me staying in the school (which is anchored to the ground, literally?), I get the library to myself, and there are about 8 others staying in the school as well (they’re in town for various reasons, more on that in another post perhaps). The administrators I talked to were very friendly, and helpful, and they’re looking for another place for me to stay for longer, but for now here is fine (thanks mom for sending me a sleeping bag… and a coat for that matter because it is much colder here, though the Yup’ik guest from Bethel whose staying at the school laughed at me for that). I’ve talked to several other people about what I’m doing here, who I am, who they are, and learned a few Yup’ik words and the guy I just mentioned showed me some traditional dancing he recorded on his phone from a gathering down south earlier this year.

Ultimately, it’s going well, I have asked myself “what I am I doing here?” once or twice but it is looking like everything is going to work out and probably be quite fun and quite an experience. It is their busy time, and everyone is busy, so hopefully I’m able to find some time to work on the language with various people and the elders. We’ll see what happens tomorrow. Everyday is going to be a new adventure here and I’m looking forward to it.

Ciao!!

P.S. I have no cell service here so I wont be able to stay in touch that way, and for internet I’m plugged into an Ethernet cable so once I’m not staying in the school anymore, I don’t know what will happen then. But I’ll try to stay in touch as much as I can when I can.